Cornwall’s status as a world-class food destination shows no sign of diminishing in this new decade. From headline-grabbing restaurant openings to enticing gourmet stays, a culinary jaunt through Cornwall is a more appealing prospect than ever. Lucy Studley rounds up some of the most exciting openings coming this spring; time to get booking!
Has Fowey just become Cornwall’s hottest foodie destination?
Andy and Lyndsey Appleton won a huge following at their last restaurant at Trevibban Mill (see below) and when they announced they were looking for a new site the Cornish foodie crowd held its collective breath. Their choice of Fowey confirms the towns’ growing reputation as a top culinary haunt, with the likes of Fitzroy and Pintxo already well established.
Appleton’s Restaurant opens 1st March and, as at Trevibban previously, the menu will celebrate Andy’s love for rustic Italian food. His favourite continental ingredients are imported in small, precious parcels, but the majority of produce comes from Cornwall itself; organic fruit and veg, sustainable seafood and local meat feature in regularly changing menus which promise to delight every seasonal food impulse.
Thought pasta was passé in this era of carb phobia? Andy’s beautiful homemade agnolotti of ricotta and pea or squid ink linguine with Padstow crab will soon convince you otherwise…
Michael Caines arrives in Falmouth
Michael Caines, whose flagship property is Michelin-starred Lympstone Manor on the River Exe, recently announced that he was taking on The Cove Restaurant at Maenporth. The restaurant, which overlooks Maenporth Beach a short drive from the buzzing creative enclave of Falmouth, had the same owners for 17 years (Arty Williams and Annette Rickard) and a loyal following who will be pleased to hear that Caines envisages tweaks rather than a complete overhaul of the setting.
A light refurbishment will take place before the restaurant reopens in March. A casual brasserie-style menu will run alongside a tasting experience featuring many of Caines’ signature dishes.
Keep an eye on social media for an opening date.
The Ethicurean opens a Cornish outpost
The Ethicurean opened a decade ago in the walled gardens at Barley Wood on the outskirts of Bristol. The pioneering team have long championed plant-based eating, taking their lead from the seasonal riches provided by large and productive kitchen gardens surrounding the restaurant.
Their new Cornish restaurant will enjoy equally fecund surroundings. Trevibban Mill (formerly home to Appleton’s Restaurant – see above) is a vineyard and orchard near Padstow, which also offers tours and tasting experiences. The team behind The Ethicurean is taking over the top floor of the contemporary winery, where their 80-seater restaurant will have views over the vine-covered slopes.
Remaining true to their ethos, The Ethicurean at Trevibban Mill will be mainly plant-based but will also champion the finest sustainable seafood and meat from local pasture rearing farms. The collaboration will see Trevibban Mill wines paired with dishes, and offers plenty of scope for tasting menus, wine flights and other food and wine events.
A new gourmet bolthole opens in St Ives..
Ben’s Cornish Kitchen in Marazion was a small family restaurant, open for almost ten years, which won acclaim year after year from the Michelin Guide, and from food critics including Jay Rayner.
The restaurant closed last year but chef Ben Prior promised to return with a new project, and he does so this spring in St Ives, with a collaborative venture alongside Mick Smith of the Porthminster Collection (Porthminster Beach Café, Porthminster Kitchen, Porthgwidden Beach Café.)
The great news for gourmet travellers is that there’ll be luxury rooms too, making this the perfect base for exploring all that St Ives has to offer. Ben’s Kitchen at 27 The Terrace will be a small boutique hotel and restaurant, overlooking Porthminster Beach. With 11 bedrooms currently undergoing refurbishment, this has to be high on your foodie stays wish-list for 2020…